Store
Subscribe!
Thinking of a New Boat?
Purchasing and Rigging Advice
January is here and it is boat show time. You want to buy a boat and you know what you like. You know what you want the boat to do and you like the way it looks on the outside but, do you know what to look for on the inside?
The marketplace for new boats, motors and trailers is very competitive and price should not be your only consideration. The rigging process used on your boat is the key to either years of trouble-free enjoyment or years of gremlins in your hull. Rigging done right will add a little more in price but much less in aggravation.
Name-brand liquid cell batteries are all of generally good quality but only good for 24 to 30 months maximum. Gel cell batteries cost more but last longer. The size and type of wire used and the way your batteries are connected to the boat's electrical system are very important. There should be no splices between the battery switch and the engine, one long continuous run of the appropriate gauge wire for the distance required. Marine tinned wiring only should be used for battery wiring as well as all other circuits on the boat. Stainless steel locknuts should be used on the battery terminals NO WING NUTS!
The MCA (Marine Cranking Amps) rating of the batteries should be what is suggested by the manufacturer. Battery lugs should be covered with heat-shrink and all other electrical connections should be crimped w/heat-shrink connectors.
In the tunnel hull center console world we like to install all pumps, batteries and filtration under the console whenever possible. We recommend twin batteries with a one, two and all "Perko" selector switch. This is a redundant safety system and is worth its weight in gold when all you hear is "click, click, click" while turning the key twenty miles from the ramp.
Engine mounting bolts should be stainless with stainless or brass lock nuts. Non-locking nuts are acceptable but should be doubled to create a jam-nut effect.
Fuel line should be of good quality and appropriate size for the engine. Engines of 115 hp and up should use 3/8 diameter; clamps should be stainless steel compression type. A fuel/water separator should be installed where the manufacture recommends.
Choose the right jackplate and hydraulic steering. Never skimp on the prop.
Ask questions, do you homework, and enjoy your new boat.
Chris Mapp
Coastal Bend Marine
PO Box 301 1808 W. Adams
Port O'Connor TX 77982
Phone: 361-983-4841 Fax: 361-983-4676
Email: [email protected]
January is here and it is boat show time. You want to buy a boat and you know what you like. You know what you want the boat to do and you like the way it looks on the outside but, do you know what to look for on the inside?
The marketplace for new boats, motors and trailers is very competitive and price should not be your only consideration. The rigging process used on your boat is the key to either years of trouble-free enjoyment or years of gremlins in your hull. Rigging done right will add a little more in price but much less in aggravation.
Name-brand liquid cell batteries are all of generally good quality but only good for 24 to 30 months maximum. Gel cell batteries cost more but last longer. The size and type of wire used and the way your batteries are connected to the boat's electrical system are very important. There should be no splices between the battery switch and the engine, one long continuous run of the appropriate gauge wire for the distance required. Marine tinned wiring only should be used for battery wiring as well as all other circuits on the boat. Stainless steel locknuts should be used on the battery terminals NO WING NUTS!
The MCA (Marine Cranking Amps) rating of the batteries should be what is suggested by the manufacturer. Battery lugs should be covered with heat-shrink and all other electrical connections should be crimped w/heat-shrink connectors.
In the tunnel hull center console world we like to install all pumps, batteries and filtration under the console whenever possible. We recommend twin batteries with a one, two and all "Perko" selector switch. This is a redundant safety system and is worth its weight in gold when all you hear is "click, click, click" while turning the key twenty miles from the ramp.
Engine mounting bolts should be stainless with stainless or brass lock nuts. Non-locking nuts are acceptable but should be doubled to create a jam-nut effect.
Fuel line should be of good quality and appropriate size for the engine. Engines of 115 hp and up should use 3/8 diameter; clamps should be stainless steel compression type. A fuel/water separator should be installed where the manufacture recommends.
Choose the right jackplate and hydraulic steering. Never skimp on the prop.
Ask questions, do you homework, and enjoy your new boat.
Chris Mapp
Coastal Bend Marine
PO Box 301 1808 W. Adams
Port O'Connor TX 77982
Phone: 361-983-4841 Fax: 361-983-4676
Email: [email protected]